The 2024 High Performance Competitions (Boulder & Lead) will take place at the Richmond Olympic Oval as follows:
- Boulder, February 22-23, 2024
- Lead, February 26-27, 2024
- Performance Workshops (5) from February 22 to 27, 2024
- This event is by invitation only
- This event will be scored on the CEC Vertical Life Platform. This event will NOT be livestreamed.
- We need volunteers to help us run this event! Please consider signing up for one or many shifts. Register here.
Start Lists
- Richmond_L_Men_Qualification_startlist NEW
- Richmond_L_Women_Qualification_startlist NEW
- Richmond_B_Men_Qualification_startlist
- Richmond_B_Women_Qualification_startlist
Objectives
The CEC High Performance Competitions have the following objectives:
- Replicate World Cup Qualification Rounds with the goals of qualifying more Canadian athletes into World Cup Semi Final rounds
- Test athletes in their ability to compete independently, without personal coach support
- Provide high performance value to athletes in the form of coaching, routesetting, and workshops
- Provide an opportunity to collect Continuous National Ranking (CNR) points
Workshop Details
- Registered athletes have access to ALL workshops for FREE (included in registration cost, no need to register)
- Coaches and community members can register for in-person ($75) or online access ($50) here: https://forms.gle/TDUwLvjZEFCPxyNB8
- See Workshop Details below
Coaching Access
The main goal of the High Performance Competition is to challenge athletes to perform with little to no coaching, as often experienced on the World Cup tour.
Therefore, during the COMPETITIONS (including warm up), coaches will not be allowed to interact with the athletes. Coaches are allowed to join the debrief period AFTER the competition has concluded.
Only REGISTERED coaches can fill appeals and partake in the debrief sessions (please give priority to athletes in the debrief sessions). To register as a CEC Coach, please fill out this form: https://forms.gle/iTyoq3oMD115yYq5A
CEC Event Team
We are excited to welcome guest Head Setter Romain Cabessut to lead our team of Canadian setters for this event. Romain has set at more than 100 International and National Events, including the 2021 Olympi Games and the 2023 PanAmerican Games. He is a member of the IFSC Routestting Commission, and a Certified IFSC Head Setter. Debriefing sessions will be conducted in English, but Romain will be more than happy to answer your questions in French!
Setting Team
- Head Setter: Romain Cabessut (FRA, IFSC Level 4)
- Setters: Simon Parton, Hayden Jones, Lucas Uchida, Pedro Corral
Official Team
- Boulder Jury President: Mohammad Havaledar (CAN/IRA)
- Lead Jury President: JoAnne Carilli-Stevenson (USA)
Schedule & Format
| Thursday February 22, 2024 | Boulder Male Competition | ||
| 8:00am | Check In Open | ||
| 8:30am | ISO closes | ||
| 8:30am - 9:30am | WarmUp | ||
| 9:30am - 1pm | Competition | 5 problems, 5on 5off | |
| 1pm - 2:45pm | Debrief Session | Debrief the problems with routesetters and try them again! | |
| 3:00pm - 4:30pm | Workshop #1 | Game Plan | Speaker: Candice Drouin, CSI Pacific Do you know of Game Plan? Do you know how to manage being a high performance athlete, while still planning for life after sport? Candice is a Game Plan Advisor at CSI Pacific. Her impressive qualifications include a Masters in Education, Coaching studies, and a Bachelor of Communications, Minor in Publishing. She has experience as an elite athlete & national team coach. In her Game Plan role, she advises athletes on their career and academic goals and how to manage being an elite athlete, while still planning for a future after sport. |
| Friday February 23, 2024 | Boulder Female Competition | ||
| 8:00am | Check In Open | ||
| 8:30am | ISO closes | ||
| 8:30am - 9:30am | WarmUp | ||
| 9:30am - 1pm | Competition | 5 problems, 5on 5off | |
| 1pm - 2:45pm | Debrief Session | Debrief the problems with routesetters and try them again! | |
| 3:00pm - 4:00pm | Workshop #2 | Physiology Part 1 From training principles to innovative technology – tools to help you plan your training, optimize your recovery, and prepare for competition. | Speaker: Stacey Hutton, CSI Pacific Stacey Hutton is a physiologist with the Canadian Sport Institute (CSI) Pacific and Adjunct Professor at the University of British Columbia. Working in high performance sport for over 15 years and responsible for most of the physiological assessments with CSI Pacific registered athletes between Vancouver and Whistler, Stacey has seen first-hand how some of the world’s most accomplished athletes in a variety of sports reach their peak performance. Stacey will broadly discuss topics related to relative energy deficiency (REDS), environmental considerations, and general considerations for aerobic testing. |
| Saturday, February 24, 2024 | Workshops | ||
| 11am - 12pm | Workshop #3 | Nutrition | Speaker: Stephen Gurr, CSI Pacific Fueling performance in both training and competition, nutrition strategies to promote training adaptations and recovery, along with a brief discussion on low energy availability and RED-S. I will aim to leave 10-15 minutes at the end of the presentation for any questions the athletes may have. Stephen is a Registered Dietitian with over 10-years’ experience providing nutrition services to elite adolescent and senior athletes from a wide range of sports, including individuals who have competed at the Olympic Games and World Championship level. Prior to moving to BC, Stephen worked as a Sports Dietitian at both the Australian Institute of Sport and the Aspire Academy of Sports Excellence in Doha, Qatar. Stephen aims to offer athletes individualized, evidenced-informed sports nutrition advice to help them achieve their health and performance goals. |
| 1pm - 2pm | Workshop #4 | Physiology Part 2 | Speaker: Benjamin McKeller, CSI Ontario Workshop topics will include: Predictors of climbing performance and considerations for testing; Climbing competition physical and energetic demands; General periodization models; Competition strategies Ben Mckellar is a physiologist at the CSI Ontario. He is finishing his MSc at The university of Guelph looking at the application of blood flow restriction training to lead climbing performance and relevant physiology. Ben is a published researcher with a climbing specific paper investigating time management strategies in IFSC bouldering finals events. He has also helped the CEC with their RBC training ground athlete selection and coaches a youth climbing team in Toronto. Ben will be available after the workshop and throughout the HP competitions to answer questions. |
| Sunday, February 25, 2024 | Rest Day | ||
| Monday, February 26, 2024 | Lead Competition | ||
| 8:00am | Check In Open | ||
| 8:30am | ISO closes | ||
| 8:30am - 9:30am | WarmUp | ||
| 9:30am - 11:30am | Route A (male and female) | 6min, Onsight Format | |
| 12pm - 2pm | Route B (male and female) | 6min, Flash Format | |
| 2pm - 4pm | Debrief Session | Debrief the routes with routesetters and try them again! | |
| Tuesday, February 27, 2024 | Lead Training Camp | ||
| 9:30am - 10:30am | Workshop #5 | The science of sleep
| Speaker: Pat Byrne Pat Byrne pioneered sleep and fatigue programs for professional athletes over 14 years ago and co-authored the ground breaking book, “Inconvenient Sleep: Why Teams Win and Lose”. Pat spent seven years with the Vancouver Canucks providing training and consultation on sleep, travel, circadian rhythms and jet lag to all the players, coaches and management. His highly touted work there established the industry standard for managing sleep and fatigue across all sports. Pat holds a graduate degree in Biochemistry from Western Washington University and has worked with researchers in the sleep and fatigue field for many years from the University of Pittsburgh, John Hopkins University, Washington State University and Stanford University. |
| 11am - 12:30pm | WarmUp | ||
| 12:30pm - 4pm | Climbing and Debrief | Routesetters will debrief with athletes | |
Game-Plan-Action-Sheet-2024-fillable
